Olympus Mju ii // Kodak trix at 1600, hc110 1:47 dilution for 16mins at 20c. Grain, grain, grain – “Photographers seem to need periodically to resist their own knowingness and to remystify what they do” Sontag, on photography pg 126.
Five locations in one day.
Arbor Low Stone Circle
Burbage valley (north)
Leica m2/ v.c 35 2.5. Kodak tri-x rated at el 1600.
Between camping trips I got a beat up old Olympus 35 SP with non-working meter (who needs it) as a substitute for the Leica m2 on camping trips and the like. I cleaned the rangefinder patch and viewfinder of gunk and dust. I am also thinking about adjusting the rangefinder (if possible) as it back focuses a little. Overall, its a chunky Olympus Trip or RC with a hefty piece of f 1.7 glass, but I think that line of topic is for another future blog post.
So for the weekend I took the oly sp and a roll of kodak double x which I shot at box speed el 250 for plenty of opportunity to shoot at f1.7 if I needed to. I don’t normally go for shallow depth of field, its an over done cliché. Its bad practise unless done right, but I really wanted to push the lens to see what it could do wide open. Spoiler to any future blog post on the camera- when wide open it has a nice vignette, arching swirly bokeh, and softening of the corners.
Camping involved trying out my new alpkit gas stove, taking hammock naps in the hot sun, and drinking coffee late into the night. Its a good way to spend the weekend.
I use to shoot ferrania film quite a bit when it was still readily available in, of all places, the pound shop. ‘Solaris 200’ use to sit along side ‘agfa vista 200’, while gainer than the latter it was better for colours with deep blues that ‘popped’ out. It was, at one time, my favourite colour film, even coming with me on trips.
Keeping this short, this new film is the black and white p30, they have recently produced and sold. It was delayed a little, much to the annoyance of many. I got 5, and gave 3 away to friends. Share the wealth.
Here are a few snapshots using the film. First thoughts are that it isn’t as forgiving as most films, lot of blown highlights. Using a yellow filter the contrast is high. Its a distinctive look.
The film was developed in rodinal APH 09 1 + 50 for 8 minutes. One minute agitation at start then 1 per minute thereafter.
Leica m2 – voigtlander 2.5/35mm and Jupiter 8 + yellow filter. Tri-x 400 @ 1600, developed in hc110 + rodinal mix.
Leica m2 – voigtlander 2.5/35mm + yellow filter. Tri-x 400 @ 1600, developed in hc110 + rodinal mix.
This is a motion picture film that has been ready spooled into 35mm canisters by the people at nik & trick. It comes in a reclaimed canister with old school kodak labelling.
Shooting the film- no surprise, I underexposed. Instead of the native 250iso, I shot it at 800 so that I could carry on using my usual hyperfocal focusing technique (I usually shoot at 1600 for this). Additionally I used a yellow filter.
I developed it in hc110 dilution h 1:63 for 20 minutes, a time I figured out based on the 400iso times. The roll came out with too much contrast, crap for printing but okay for scanning. I was expecting grain having seen images on flickr of punchy grain riddled images at even 400iso. Maybe I’ll mix rodinal into the hc110 next time for a more gritty look, especially if I do some street photography.
The following are from 2 walks.
The images have a broad tonality with shadows keeping lots of detail even with a yellow filter. The film, when paired with hc110, has a nice look to it. I want to say it has a indie movie quality look to it, but that’s a given -its motion picture film.
I have been holding off posting this, as some of the images I am using for neopantastic. As its post week, I don’t think it matters now.
The following was taken with my leica m2, voigtländer 35mm f/2.5 + yellow filter, with bergger pancro 400
The following was shot with fuji acros 100 and a oly mju ii.
This film is something special, a totally new film with two emulsion layers.
I am really impressed with the amount of detail it can hold in the shadows when underexposed, and how much detail it retains in the blown highlights. Scanning and processing was a little tricky, I always scan for neutral tiff files and then batch edit with a curve later on. The neutral scans were muddy in the shadows -its like the film retains details too well, and it took me awhile to sort out but I had to curve down the blacks a lot more than I normally would with HP5.
Speaking of hp5, the images are similar in tone but the grain is very different. Up close the grains are smaller and there seems to be more, probably because of the 2 layers.
I developed the film in my go-to HC110 at dilution B for 9 mins at 20c as recommended by Bergger in the data sheets (though, on the box there’s no HC110 data.) The film has to be fixed for a longer time than most films and it drys very straight with no curling.
The images were shot with my leica m2 at 400 iso and are a mixed bunch.
The images have really nice tones but can I push the film to 1600 for some zone focusing street photography?